There was a strong metal bridge just downstream, and it was fun to cross. 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. Day three Descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. Yay! Also included are North Lake, South Lake, Piute Pass, Evolution Valley and Lake Sabrina. As I hiked along, I met several PCT Through-Hikers heading north. The traditional route goes over Piute Pass and down through Humphreys Basin, taking a long time before turning the corner and climbing up to Evolution Valley. Day 5: Cushy Day was followed by Payback Day. 5.1 trip report. Weather was great very little wind. it has all the beauty you can think of, in fact you will get a beauty intake overdoz lol. Deer are seen occasionally. Mosquitoes were everywhere but easily controlled with DEET and an (optional) headnet. The trail starts at North Lake (9,276'), soon enters the John Muir Wilderness, and ascends to Piute Pass (11,423') in four steep miles. I took off my shoes and let my damp feet dry out in the breeze. I took a break on the edge of the meadow and got out my map. An incredible hike through the Sierras. The trail on the right leads north into French Canyon. to North Lake Road, 20 mi to Pine Creek 856 110 to 114 SEKI - Goddard (28) Aspen Meadow & Goddard Creek Junction 851 to 855 114 to 121 SEKI - McClure Meadow (33) Evolution Valley, McClure, and Colby Meadows 845 to 851 121 to 127 SEKI - Evolution Basin (34) Evolution Lake, Wanda Lake, to Muir Pass 838.5 to . From here, it's west and south down and into the epic Le Conte Canyon. Bugs werent that bad. Good campsites can be found along the river beyond the Piute Creek bridge. We hiked this loop from North to South Lake. Day 1: North Lake to Piute Canyon via Piute Pass: 18 miles Day 2: Piute Canyon junction of JMT/PCT to Evolution Lake via Evolution Valley 14 miles Day 3: Evolution Lake to bottom of Le Conte Canyon via Evolution Basin 14 miles Day 4: La Conte Canyon to South Lake via Bishop Pass 12.5 miles Mosquitoes: none, gnats on Wanda Lake The fourth day we packed back to the Florence lake JMT trail junction. After that, I was down on the floor of Evolution Valley. Inside the hut, I swear I felt intensely connected with the energy of the many hikers who entered tired, cold and grateful. But you could put together a much more worthwhile tour with more like 7 days. Here is a brief summary of our route: South Lake Trailhead - Bishop Pass - Dusy Basin - LeConte Canyon - Muir Pass - Evolution Valley - Puite Creek Canyon - Humphrey's Basin - Piute Pass - North Lake Trailhead. Some of the best are right at the outlet with a view both down into Evolution Valley, and back up the Basin, though those were taken when we arrived, even at that early hour (mostly people staying there for several days it seemed). Piute Creek to Evolution Creek, 3.5 miles Beyond Piute Creek the trail stays close to the river, working its way up the canyon. I heard it thundering off to the side of the trail and went over to check it out, and Im glad I did. We had heard that you could maybe get an employee of Parcher's Resort to give you a lift to the North Lake Trailhead -- they are located a mile down the road from the South Lake Trailhead. This is a beautiful post. At Muir Pass base, if the snow looks significant above, take the first stream crossing at the very bottom of Muir Pass because the stream only gets deeper going up. The best time ever, I mean. The climb up to Piute Pass was uneventful, passing a series of lakes on the way to the day's high point. Or bag flattopped Mt. Bridge at JMT junction Stream crossing below Goddard Canyon turnoff Bridge below Goddard Canyon Back across Goddard Canyon Log crossing below Evolution Meadow View up Evolution Valley Gould, Mendel, and Darwin Darwin to Huxley, the Evo traverse crux Tehipite Valley Trail: Begins at Wishon Reservoir. These Photos Prove It. Did this hike in end of June 2020 but it was one of my favorites to date so want to leave a review. Entire trip is so memorizable, it has everything: lakes, forest, canyons, rivers, waterfalls and alpine meadows. Jackass Meadow and Ward Lake campgrounds are located near Florence Lake. Im a layman, what can I say? however, if you are an average backpacker like me, expect some brutal acents and decents. Evolution Creek had already joined forces and the river was much larger. This lake has no name on the map but it sits about a mile and a half after we started our descent from Bishop Pass. Camp at Wanda! But the Reader Leader contest was all it took to get me planning again. Highly recommend bringing a bug net to wear if you think you will encounter them. Muir Pass snow is melting fast and maybe only 1.5 miles worth heading northbound and maybe 2 over towards Sapphire Lake. Free parkinggotta love that! We passed more than a dozen lakes some of which I will mention when I upload photos. It was gorgeous. Evolution Valley was flower-filled, even in this drought year. Create a personalized feed and bookmark your favorites. The first thing the trail did was cross the river on a wooden bridge, far upstream from its merging with Evolution Creek, so it was still relatively small. Beautifully desolate. Day 4: Evolution Valley to Piute Creek. Id get my chance eventually. Because of the late snowfall, we were graced with the continued presence of wildflowers, complimented by the beginnings of golden fall, as we skip-trah-lahed our way alongside crashing gorge waterfalls and the calm tracing of the San Joaquin River. View full map Reviews (235) Photos (774) 5 4 3 2 1 4.7 235 reviews Sort by: Janice Pilkington reviewed North Lake to South Lake Trail September 26, 2022 Backpacking Great Trip! Ooops! Excellent! Allow extra driving time to Florence Lake. The most challenging part of the hike was crossing the river. Nineteen miles from the nearest trailhead, Evolution Valley is a two-day hike for most backpackers. Edit Last Edited by tomripley30 Sights to See North Lake Campground Stock Camp Summit Lake This great hike to scenic Piute Pass ascends beneath the multi-hued Piute Crags to a beautiful lakes basin tucked beneath Mt. It happens from glacial erosion that widens and deepens the main valley leaving the geographic feature that seems to float above it. We offer this guided journey in three itineraries: 3-day Ultralight 4-day Backpacking (July 23-26, 2022) 5-day Backpacking (July 16-20, 2022) Didnt know you needed a reservation to drive through Yosemite, so consider going through Sonora Pass (unless you go through after 4pm). What seemed like an irritating setback at the time, ended up giving us a chance to acclimate a bit before hauling ourselves, and 40 unaccustomed pounds, over Bishop Pass. Diego, the 11-year-old Lab mix, was struggling; the family carried him part way. "Ridicule is the tribute that mediocrity pays to genius. Day 1 South Lake over Bishop Pass to Upper Dusy Basin: 7.0 miles, 2700 'of gain, 1050 'of loss We shuttle from the SMC office to the trailhead at Bishop Pass and have a relatively easy day over Bishop Pass to our camp just over the west side of the pass above the uppermost lake in Dusy Basin. I think this might be a great time to interject that finding water was never, ever a problem. Most of our campsites were fantastic with waterfalls or pretty lakes. The Vanderbilt Mine is located partly on private land in the San Bernardino County, two miles west of California-Nevada state lines in the New York mountains four miles southeast of the Ivanpah valley within the Mojave National Preserve. Camp at Wanda Lake along the trail to Muir Pass; no campsites after first quarter mile (night 3). The metal bridge over Piute Creek marks the border between Kings Canyon National Park and the John Muir Wilderness. $3,395: Description Itinerary Resources The John Muir Trail is one of the finest hikes to be found anywhere in the world. The next morning, we went over Piute Pass and continued 10+ miles through beautiful Piute Canyon to Hutchinson Meadow. We saw a snow avalanche once at a distance. Piute Pass: Begins at North Lake. But it helped me make up my mind. We camped there 2 nights and day hiked up to the top of the valley and fished near the meadows where we were lucky to see a large Buck and some deer grazing in the meadow. Was it this heavy yesterday? A number of camp sites here. So we caught the 9:00am ferry across and bought a few things in the little store there. But it was still too hot for climbing, I told myself. Our simple food choices were holding very well. Hike up Muir Pass, down to Le Conte Ranger Station. There was still quite a bit of snow on the surrounding mountains and still ice in the lake. One bite of the Evolution area is liable to infect any passerby, causing even the most mileage-minded thru-hike If the John Muir Trail is the crown jewel of the Pacific Crest Trail, then the Evolution Basin and Valley are perhaps the most strikingly-sculpted gem to be carefully placed in that jewel. North Lake to Hutchinson Meadow is very straightforward. We would love to be back again sometime. 6 days / 5 night. Great camping along the creek once you cross the several streams in Hutchinson Meadow (night 1). I see no real advantage to hiking one way vs. the other. Glaciated dome on the canyon side, with Turret Creek (which was dry) on the left, The Piute Pass Trail finally got closer to Piute Creek and I began to seriously look for a campsite, now that I had water, My tent and campsite alongside Piute Creek I wanted to lie down but I still had chores to do, View from my campsite, at 9000 feet elevation, looking downstream. I recommend an early start because of the exposure in the first 3 miles of Piute Trail. John Muir Trail, Evolution Valley, and Goddard Canyon access point. Evolution Valley Ascension, Kings Canyon National Park and John Muir Wilderness, California Sierra Club Outings Trip | Backpack More Photos Highlights Traverse high mountain passes including Piute and Muir Hike among lush green meadows full shallow tarns Enjoy a layover day to explore or relax Includes An occasional patch of snow sets off the deep azure of the alpine lakes but there is very little vegetation. Wheres there a low altitude pass that brings me out East of the Darwin Glacier? I have done this trail three times in all. Erika, the alpine pond photograph posted next to the Day 2 text is stunning. A boat-taxi across the lake is available from the trailhead in the summer. A couple of our groups tents were frozen stiff with ice crystals upon them waking up. I checked my GPS and discovered that I had hiked almost 15 miles today! Piute Pass going in is a bit of a doozy so push on over and head for lower altitude camping or you may be whacked by the elevation. That was the new plan, I decided. Get surefire solitude in McGee Canyon (south about .5 mile back). Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. Piute Pass. Did it South Lake to North Lake so the slog at Muir Pass was real and all trails GPS offline helped me navigate through snow/now visible trail, Did it in equiv of 4 days. Good campsites can be found there also. Shortly after passing Colby Meadow and reaching McClure Meadow, we were served the best views of The Hermit, a distinctly steep monolith, and Mt. Dawn on Piute Pass Back toward Pilot Knob West side, baby! Push to camp spots near the McClure Meadow ranger station; you will be rewarded with the best breakfast scenery the next day (night 2). Then I ate some dinner and took photos and videos of the waterfall that was just downstream from my tent. Their answers were vague, as expected, but they did say that there was definitely a spot a decent ways up the trail, but they werent great judges of distance. The hike isn't strenuous, and even the switchbacks didn't feel that bad. Pat was the captain of the ferry and Charlie ran the little store, nice couple. I sat down on a boulder near my gear and got out some snack. Spend up to 3 days there, then out via Evolution Valley, Darwin Basin & Lamarck Col. Julia, Megan and I were to spend 9 days accomplishing this; Trekker9, Slabwalker and JP however had work commitments and would squeeze it into 7 days - leaving us after 5-6 days and taking 2 days to exit over Lamarck. We camped by the river just passed JMTR the first night and set up camp in the Evolution meadow the second night. Very nice hike, lots of scenery. It is visible from the trail, but some hikers have walked past it without noticing it. Day 2 Dusy Basin to Big Pete Meadow For lunch we had tortillas with peanut butter or string cheese plus trail mix for snacks. One bite of the Evolution area is Distance: 8.8 miles Time: 5-7 hours Difficulty: Strenuous Gain/Loss: +498'/-1,537 Dogs: No When to go: Late July-Early October It may be called a 'creek', but Piute Creek was raging! The long circuitous way, but entirely on trails, from this trailhead goes over Piute Pass (11,423 ft.) descends through Humphrey Basin along Piute Creek to the John Muir Trail (at 8,000 ft.). Oh boy. I like bridges; what can I say? The other entrance is by way of North Lake going over Piute Pass (11,500') and passing through Humphries Basin and Piute Canyon. Beautiful and challenging in a good way. The first day we stopped at the Florence lake bridge. But that suited me fine. Parking: A large parking lot for overnight trips is situated close to the lake. I want to hike West to East in the lowest part of the evolution valley, beginning at Edison Lake. Bishop and Muir Pass are still very snowy. Pictures posted. my 21-year-old daughter. Hike down 6.6 miles to LeConte Canyon, which is a very beautiful, deep canyon with lush meadows and forests. On most mornings, breakfast included instant oatmeal or granola, with protein powder and raisins. Then climbs through Evolution Meadow and Evolution Valley to reach Evolution Lake; 4,850 ft. of climb, 3,400 ft. of descent in 28 miles. For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page, For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page, Dawn alpenglow over Evolution Lake as I packed up all my gear for another big day of hiking, Dawn color in the clouds above Evolution Valley to the north, Waterfall on the creek that descends from Darwin Bench, after the JMT descends into Evolution Valley, Crossing the creek below the waterfall it was very wide with many small crossings, The Hermit (12328 feet elevation), standing alone and shining bright, at the upper end of Evolution Valley, View up Evolution Valley, over McClure and Colby Meadows with Evolution Creek on the right, and The Hermit, center, The McClure Meadow Ranger Station and the notices outside near the trail, View over McClure Meadow in the morning light, Still water on an curving stretch of Evolution Creek, down in the flat section of Evolution Valley, This is the lower ford of Evolution Creek, where the PCT-JMT crosses this could be dangerous in Spring, The first of several powerful waterfalls and cascades on Evolution Creek down at the lower end of Evolution Valley, One waterfall after another on this section of the creek, Wide-angle GoPro shot looking down into the worn granite where Evolution Creek tumbled downward, One last view of Evolution Creek as it churned down a granite chute on its way out of Evolution Valley, Mount Henry (12196 feet) peeking out between two glaciated granite domes above the South Fork San Joaquin River, The wooden bridge where the JMT-PCT first crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, Aspen and pine forest at a much lower elevation it was HOT, The metal bridge where the PCT-JMT crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, View from the metal bridge looking north (downstream), The South Fork San Joaquin River as I hiked north on the John Muir Trail in the sun, The river goes through a steep gorge down below a talus slide. Moderate. Conditions were great! Along the way I came across the Muir Rock which I had seen on the topo map. The ferry usually runs from early June to late September, every day at 2-hour intervals beginning at 8:30 AM at the store end of the lake and making its last run from the far end at 5 PM. This is a popular trailhead for approaching the Palisades. But we didnt see any rangers. The map showed that it eventually merged into the South Fork San Joaquin River somewhere out of sight of the trail. We hiked the whole way out the third day, back around the lake to the car. We also brought along dark chocolate and tequila for special-treat nights. The mosquitos were relentless though. Plenty of camp sites a long the way. The ferry was not running this early in the season. slightly uphill or slightly downhill, varying. Now that the best parts of the trek were over (quite possibly), I was beginning to yearn for home. Also a ton of mosquitos. Privacy Policy, Learn about the Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. Day Zero Travel day. I put on my night clothing and used a bit of DEET on my face to repel them. Turn left and cross the South Fork San Joaquin River. GoPro video as I forded Evolution Creek, just north of Evolution Meadow. Map Mono Divide High Country ($10, tomharrisonmaps.com). Plentiful water (I never carried more than 16 oz.). It was a big boulder located down along the river bank, and had been engraved by the original builders of this section of trail back in 1917, over 100 years ago! One of the greatest hikes I've ever done. ALLTRAILS and the AllTrails Mountain Design are registered trademarks of AllTrails, LLC in the United States as well as certain other jurisdictions. Day 2: In the morning, we broke camp early and switch-backed up to Bishop Pass. Mosquitoes burst forth in early and mid-summer, especially around the meadow areas near the Muir Trail Ranch and Evolution Valley. We did the alternate Evolution creek crossing this time and it was easy, water just above my knees (Im 411). straightforward trail. The trail wandered along through the forest, not far from Evolution Creek, which was flowing peacefully and slow. I climbed down off my hilltop aerie and walked along the southern shore of Evolution Lake. I said a silent thank you before dropping over the top, then apologized to my knees for the steep, descending switch backs they were about to receive. 34.3 mi Distance 17 hrs 56 min Time terrain 4,821 ft Elev Gain Overview This is a difficult loop trail in Inyo National Forest. One downside though: it's freaking hard. The stars up there were surreal. Day 4: Rest and explore. The North Lake-South Lake loop is the famous "Rainbow Trail" and includes spectacular scenery visiting such areas as Dusy basin, Le Conte Canyon, Muir Pass, Evolution valley, and Humphrey's Basin. Many thanks to her for this great post and pictures! Awesome views and an incredible variety of terrain. They finished up their meal and continued onward, while I read my book and watched the river go by. We started at south lake and ended on north lake, backwards from most, and while Piute pass was a hard hike, i think ending on Piute and Humphrey's Basin was a great way to complete the trip. Purchase tickets in the store. An epic (almost) loop in the heart of the Sierras. We did it over 4d/3n (south lake to le conte, le conte to sapphire lake, sapphire lake to the junction with Piute pass trail, and then out to north lake on the last day). Us silly girls didnt expect something for nothing did we? Piute Creek You then head south on the JMT, along the river until you reach the junction with the Goddard Canyon Trail. Elevation gain: 2200 feet
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